Day 25: I started the day weeding with @blazing.sandals. (Did you know we met while pruning some grasses for a high end landscaping company in 2018? We did.) Then I got to DRIVE his Jeep into Knoxville where I met a couple of friends for Mexican food and drinks. It was SO therapeutic to have a little taste of my old life back for a little bit. The story of the mountain lion and bunny was a lighthearted way to express some heavy things, like feeling this sense of worthlessness on the trail that I don’t (often) feel in “real” life. I got to get away from that for a bit by talking with good friends and doing mundane things like running errands. My sweet friends were also so encouraging about what I was doing and how it was inspiring them. I can’t tell you how much affirmation helps me :)
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I ran by @rei to talk about my REI pack which was not working out for me. They didn’t have what I wanted in stock, but Jacob helped me make the exchange later that week. I also bought a fanny pack to keep my essentials, like my phone, mace, snacks, etc. I’ve made SO many adjustments to gear since I’ve been out here. I even bought a little hydrapack I could use in my tent at night so I wouldn’t have to leave my tent 3xs a night (this is what happens when you try to stay SUPER hydrated), if you catch my drift. Just tellin it like it is! And letting you know, I was making these adjustments to prepare for going solo from this point on. .
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My refreshing day didn’t keep me from lying awake that night with visions of that terrible man and his creepy mugshot from all of the articles I read. The next day was my first time EVER to backpack solo, and I was terrified. #at2019
Day 24: We said goodbye to our hostel buddy (seen in 1st photo) and hiked from Stecoah Gap to Fontana Dam (mile 164.3, the beginning of the Smokies, the “lake” you can see in photo 3) where @blazing.sandals ‘s parents’ picked us up and took us to eat BBQ. Then we headed to their farm. This was the end of the road for me to backpack with Jacob, and of course we were filled with a lot of mixed emotions. .
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Last minute, I decided to zero the next day near my neck of the woods to regain some sanity and reset my brain. It was fried from the sad/scary news on the trail, and I needed some familiarity and to see a few friends, who thankfully could meet me the next day. I also needed to go to @rei for a few things. .
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I spent that evening rocking a sweet dog named Tag in my arms and talking to @meadowsginny901 on the phone. The next day would be even more refreshing. #at2019
Day 22 & 23: We stayed in a hostel with every amenity a thru hiker could ask for for a couple of days to wait out storms. Jacob was caught between two simultaneous lighting strikes on his own thru hike, which traumatized him, so he likes to wait them out in civilization. Fine by me. .
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I’ve been wearing new Vasque shoes and also breaking in some new orthotics, switching between those and superfeet insoles, and even Chacos, which feel the best, so my feet have also been traumatized. I’m stretching and elevating, but no matter what, I end each day in terrible pain, and wake up in the middle of the night from it, too. So a few days off are a-ok with me. .
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Silver lining- there is a hospital bed that elevates your feet and/or head in this hostel, so I spend a LOT of time there 👵🏻 .
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First pic is the distance we’ve gone. It feels like it’s been months, and the ratio of completed vs total miles is laughable. Pic 2 is the roadside diner we ate in 4 times while there. We are in the middle of nowhere, but the diner is attached to a convenient store where Jacob eats ice cream after every meal, his favorite he calls “breakfast ice cream.” Pic 5 is @blazing.sandals giving me a foot massage, which he promised if we took some zeroes for the storm.
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This was also the time we learned about the attacks in Virginia. I woke up that Saturday to read about it on the private AT Women’s group I’m a part of on Facebook. I spent most of those 2 days unhealthily glued to my phone for updates. Rumors were flying that there were multiple victims. It took more than 24 hours to learn the details of the one fatality and the other attack, and even longer for it to hit national news. Everyone’s hearts out here were broken in half. .
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I shared this fear with multiple people before my hike, and everyone said things like this don’t happen.
I’ll think about it for a long time, how I wish mental health issues were taken more seriously, and that there was a better way to handle aggressive people before they do something “worth” pressing charges for. This type of aggression hits home with lots of people, mostly women, and I’ll be talking through it with others a lot more. #at2019
Day 21: 🔥🔥CRUSHED IT🔥🔥going up Cheoah Bald (mile 145) out of the NOC. I had been looking ahead, worrying about this day for a couple of weeks now, an 8 mile climb UP with a 3300 ft elevation gain, but I ended up feeling so good and was really proud of my pace. 🙏🏼
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@blazing.sandals carried a few beers up, so I enjoyed one at the top, while we chatted with a super cool girl from Germany. She was section hiking, and somehow took a detour for a few days with some friends she had made to ... New Orleans??!! and was now back on the trail. So awesome. .
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The Mountain Laurel were blooming, and we saw, what I *think* was my very first rattlesnake. BIG guy, at least 3 feet long and 4 inches in diameter, right on the trail. SO. GROSS. And terrifying. .
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We hiked down to Stecoah Gap, (mile 150.5), where Lonnie picked us up in his minivan to shuttle us to his hostel near Robbinsville, NC. Here we’d stay a few days to wait out some thunderstorms (have I mentioned @blazing.sandals doesn’t like thunderstorms?), which was ok with me because my feet were aching. .
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The next few days would prove to be some eerie ones. #at2019
Day 20: Imagine, if you will, that an out of shape bunny rabbit with a hurt foot asks a mountain lion to go backpacking with her to show her the ropes (he likes her brain and several other things, so he does not eat her). She asks for help mostly because she’s scared, but also, she has a lot to learn from him. He says YES emphatically because climbing mountains is his gift and his passion. They are happy. .
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Week 1: The mtn lion is patient and understanding and goes slow while the bunny struggles. He waits for her at the top of every peak and the bottom of every gap with a smile. She loves to see him waiting for her. She is thankful. .
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Week 2: Things don’t seem to be getting any better for her, but he is getting stronger. She hikes 10-12 hours a day what he could cover in half that time. He prepares everything at camp for her. She feels defeated, useless. Her hair is matted and greasy. She has no makeup to color her albino lashes and brows, nothing pretty or clean to wear, no friends to go “chat it out” with. In the real world, she has worth, but not out here. She has nothing to give. Her body is breaking. His hair waves cooly in the wind. His mountain lion beard is his glory. .
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Week 3: He can’t hide the fact that he’s ready to fly over these mountains. He was made to! She is still struggling. Why is she still struggling?! They start to grow grumbly toward one another. It’s not fun to wait, nor is it to have someone always waiting on you. “I guess we aren’t suited to hike together,” they sadly decide. Their Enneagram 4 brains spiral downward still. They forget to remember that things could get hard out here. .
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Just a few more days together, and then the bunny can be left alone to struggle at her own pace. She is looking forward to it actually, a blessing in disguise. The mountain lion has to return to work, which is more than he can bear...
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They walk miles downhill to the Nantahala Outdoor Center, eat pizza and drink beers by the river. They go to a lodge and eat more snacks and watch a movie where Chris Pratt uses a clicker to train velociraptors. The bunny and mountain lion put their hardships aside for the moment, and rest. #at2019
As you may have noticed, I changed my Instagram handle from @amyelizabethmeadows to @slowburnat , the reasons being: 1. It will be easier to share it with people I meet out here. And 2. In real time, I’m on day 40 out here and looking at about 110 days ahead of me 😯 Whatever I can do to dig my heels in, I’m there. #at2019
Day 19: It’s Bald central these days. First photos are of Rocky Bald (mile 127.1) and last ones are of Wesser Bald (mile 130.2), with a few trail shots in between. When I walked up to the observation deck on Wesser, I found a sunbathing man 😂🔥(@blazing.sandals) I’m a big fan of these towers, which makes me think of wo/man’s imprint in/on nature, just like a long, winding trail, enabling a person like me to be able to see views like these. #at2019
Comic relief post. And a lesson to any future thru hikers... So before my hike, I talked to several women who had thru hiked before to get their advice and many of them suggested I take baby wipes with me. So I decided I would be EXTRA fresh and carry 3 different types of wipes: baby wipes, face wipes, and one by the brand of Summer’s Eve (Look that up if ya don’t know what they’re for) I divvied them up into ziplocs, labeled each with a sharpie and went on my merry way. Well, it only took about three days for the sharpie to smudge off the bags because EVERYTHING is moist out here ALL of the time, leaving me clueless as to which wipes were which... I decided in the end that they are probably all the same thing, right?!?! SO if you are having a hard day, feeling sad or lonely, please just envision a grown woman, sitting on a log in the middle of the woods, eyes closed, Summer’s Eve-ing her face... and smiling. #at2019 .
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Oh, and if you don’t *like* the word “moist,” imagine *being* moist. All. Of. The. Time.
Just talking to some rabbits 🐇🐇 on top of Wayah Bald. I talk to all the creatures, snails especially, and help them cross the trail. Don’t worry. I’m not *going* insane. I’ve been doing this my whole life. Runs in my family 😂 @meadowsginny901 @catmeadows #at2019
Day 18: Today was incredibly beautiful, with great views from Siler and Wayah Balds, but with it came new challenges. .
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So 18 days is about the time my introverted nature starts yelling at me. Jacob is also an introvert, and one of the things we like so much about each other is that we can just be in each other’s presence for hours, days, and still feel full. But we both know there’s a limit. I learned it’s around 18 days.
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Back home I have a morning ritual of moving like a (slowburning) snail while I drink coffee and read and write. I wake up 3 hours early to do this, knowing that it helps me interact with the world better. But my precious morning ritual has been wrecked out here. From the moment I wake to the moment I sleep, there is always something to do or there is always someone talking to me (not just Jacob. There are people everywhere!). I hike alone a lot during the day, but that’s not the same kind of restful alone time I need. “Working” and being alone doesn’t provide the same energy as my slow morning routine. .
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On top of this, my gut starts to get louder, which, since I’m writing from the future, I can look back and say I’m so grateful to be in tune with. It’s saying, “Remember that dream you’ve always had of hiking the AT alone? And also remember how you wanted to do this alone to build confidence from being a badass in the woods? It’s time.” .
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As I said in a previous post, Jacob has been helping me so much, getting water, setting up our tent, hanging our bear bags, but my gut starts to say, “It’s time for you to do this alone. You’re brain is fearful, but you are ready.”
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We have about 6 more days until Jacob leaves me at Fontana, the start of the Smokies. If I follow my fears and cling to him for the support I think I need, I’ll lose everything I want, even him. That’s just how these things go. Trusting and following our gut is the truest and most honorable option we have, and that’s what I’m after out here. I think that’s what most people are out here for. A big ole gut check. #at2019
Day 17: Santa Mike gave us a ride back to a Mooney Gap (mile 98) from Franklin, where I asked if I could take his photo, and then he asked if he could take our photo (photo 2) .
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@thewanderingsailor Gave me excellent advice before my hike to not only take photos of nature but of people, too. Thank you, Wes!
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We climbed to the top of Albert Mountain (mile 99.7), I used my hands for the first time to scurry to the fire tower on top, which was locked, but still a wonderful view. .
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Photo 5: Took a selfie at mile 100.9, after realizing I had crossed 100 miles!! I look ecstatic, don’t I? I actually am. .
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Photo 6: Jacob gets water. I’m getting spoiled on this water. It tastes so good. .
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At this point, we are hiking over 10 miles a day (12.2 on this day). Jacob hikes ahead to set up camp, he is my “sherpa” after all. I get to the road at Winding Stair Gap (mile 109.4) where a minivan pulls up next to me. A little shady, but then I realize it’s none other than Santa Mike and his wife. What timing to cross paths at the next road crossing! He commends me on how far I’ve hiked today, with the Albert Mtn climb and all, he is actually very impressed. I am, too. I cross the road to go about 1 more mile, thankful for Jacob who lets me focus on my “job” of increasing my mileage, while he takes care of the rest. #at2019
Day 16: We took our things and headed across the street to the Budget Inn. For a few more dollars, we could have a MUCH better room for our zero day in Franklin. Our main goals were to find me some new shoes, which we did, and pick up a package from my sweet sister @meadowsginny901, full of treats and my new orthotics. Out fades the saga of my knee, slow fade into the saga of my feet (to be continued). .
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This has been such a cool way to see little slices of the states, walking from town to town, nestled between mountain ranges. We walk many miles to get there, and then we walk miles around the town to eat too much food, resupply at the grocery or Dollar General, or to the local outfitter. .
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My all time favorite thing to do on zero days is lie in bed for hours, eating snacks, and watching the Office, which is what we did on this particular day. It’s been a good lesson on the importance of rest. There is a phrase that gets passed around- “No pain, no rain, no Maine.” I would like to add to the list “no lying in bed eating snacks for hours every so often, no Maine.” To stop and rest is crucial. #at2019
Day 15: somewhere near mile 95 was this beautiful view where we stopped to eat lunch and met a Swiss fellow named Claudio. I muted the sound so you wouldn’t have to hear my heavy breathing... again. . .
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Each section has its own “brand” of signs. Love these, especially the ones that tell you where to use the restroom 🚽 Thank you @appalachiantrail 🙏🏼
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Thunderstorms started rolling in on our way up Albert Mountain so we called a shuttle to take us into Franklin, NC where we stayed at the renowned and wildly dumpy hiker hostel called Baltimore Jacks. But not before my Outdoor Research rain jacket completely failed within about 20 minutes. I was soaked to the bone. .
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We walked to dinner that evening and then spent some time meeting and hanging out with other thru hikers, identified by their camp shoes, unkempt hair, unmakeupped faces, and general excitement to be a little bit cleaner and well fed/watered. #at2019
Day 14: I got my trail name:🔥🔥🔥Slowburn🔥🔥🔥
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First photo is of me in Hiawassee the day before. The second photo is of Craig- good storyteller, cussed like a sailor, made me laugh. Earlier this morning, he was saying bye to us at the campsite, and assumed since Jacob’s name was @blazing.sandals, mine would be something like Slowburn. Jacob and I looked at each other and smiled because it was perfect. Slow is the way I roll, but I will get the job done... eventually. .
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We hiked over Indian Mountain today, and I got soaked to the bone in little spouts of rain. #at2019
Day 13: Crossed that Georgia/ North Carolina border! (mile 78.1) One state down, 13 to go! 😂
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My knee is feeling better, but still wearing the brace for safe-keeping, and still wearing the shot @lowa.outdoor boots. Have to wait til Franklin, NC where there are more shoe options. .
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It takes me all day to hike my miles, but the light toward the end of the day is so nice to walk in. Camped at Bly Gap, and hung out with funny section hikers, Eric and Craig. Craig will becomes an integral part of my trip. Stay tuned... 😊 #at2019
This is Ronald Sanchez who lost his life last weekend while thru hiking. Before knowing his name or seeing his photo, I’ve thought about him so much and grieved as I walk toward Maine. I hope his family knows his life is being honored by one of the most beautiful and inspiring communities I’ve ever had the opportunity to be a part of. #atstrong #atstronghold #at2019 #atwomensgroup #atthunder
Day 12: Flame Azalea, leaving Sassafras Gap campsite... I shed some tears today, but not the same type as the day before.
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We had a “short” day, 6.3 miles, which always messes me up mentally. We had a “little” climb up Kelly Knob, which sounded SO easy, but Kelly Knob was no knob. It was a steep mountainside. And it was hot and humid. And bugs were flying nonstop into my sweaty face, nose, and mouth. .
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When I reached the top, Jacob was there, obviously, waiting for me, and so I asked him to walk on so that I could sit and have my imminent breakdown. .
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So a little background. I was completely out of shape when I started this hike. Not only that, I had gained about 10 lbs leading up to it. I was having foot problems and told to rest, so all my plans to train and get into shape were curbed and instead I ate snacks. No big deal. I would acclimate ON the trail! .
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There isn’t any exercise that can prepare you for thru hiking, so acclimating along the way is ok if you have the time, but I don’t. Because of the foot problems, I had to push my start date back almost 3 weeks, which means I’ve got to get my pace up pretty quickly if I’m going to finish. .
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So I’m sitting on top of Kelly Knob, with no pretty view, only fog, weeping about how hard this is, mad at bugs, mad at my body, mad at my feet for causing this problem, mad that I’m so slow, in every capacity. ...A stark contrast from the perfect day before. .
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I realized a while back that I often lament the hand I’ve been dealt, instead of just playing the game and enjoying it the best I can. Everyone is wired differently, and I am wired to see the glass half empty, and I’m also a 4 Enneagram. So not only do I lament the hand I’ve been dealt, I also lament the fact that I’m lamenting. .
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The point of this post? Well, sometimes this is just NOT fun. And it’s hard. And often I don’t handle it well. But, as the Enneagram handbook tells me, no emotion is final. And at Dicks Creek Gap, there was a nice man who hitched us into town to eat Mexican Food. And then we had warm beds in a crappy motel in Hiawasee to sleep in. And if anyone can withstand this kind of masochism, an Enneagram 4 can. #at2019
Day 11: I shed some tears today. .
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We were climbing over Rocky Mountain (mile 53.9) and the weather was perfection. Jacob and I were both taking photos and videos of all the plants and wildflowers and views. And I made the mistake, as I’ve done multiple times all ready on this trip, of listening to @lordhuron while all this is happening, and I was so overwhelmed with gratitude. .
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Here I am, living out something I’ve dreamed of for 20 years, and listening to songs that have hyped up my desire to go on an adventure over the last few years like nothing else can (Lord Huron should be the official soundtrack of millennials’ road trips and travels to far off places) And I’m here with Jacob, lover of plants and woods and mountains, and he couldn’t be any happier. And my knee is feeling better with every step. So much good, I could not handle it. #at2019
First sight of Mountain Laurel blooming. .
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I will carry on with updates very soon but have been holding off in light of the recent and overwhelmingly sad news out here on the trail. I’m sending out my deepest condolences to all of the hikers affected by the attacks in Virginia this weekend. It is my personal nightmare come true, and I can’t imagine what anyone involved must be going through right now. .
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I still believe the AT is a safe place, as do most people out here, but that doesn’t mean I’m not shaken. I’m going to keep going, but please say a prayer or two for me, and everyone else out here. I have been going, and will continue going, in spite of all my fears. #at2019
Day 10: So what happens on a zero day? In all honesty, this was one of my biggest questions while I was preparing for my thru hike. How do I get to town? Do I need resupplies shipped to me? How much will lodging be? Will I be able to do laundry? How will I get from place to place once I’m in town? .
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These questions are one of the main reasons I asked Jacob to join me, because the logistics of it were really overwhelming me as I was preparing to leave.
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Mainly, how we have answered all the questions is: we’ll figure it out as we go along. .
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In Hiawassee we did have a package waiting for us at the post office so we had to walk to get it. It had some clothing and gear for Jacob and some things (toiletries and snacks) I had prepared before I left. We got a ride into town by our buddy Kevin, as I mentioned in the last post. We walked to dinner but then people would recognize us as hikers and hitch us the rest of the way. We had to buy some food (from Walgreens next to the Budget Inn) but we also got a lot of resupply food from the church grill out in Unicoi Gap and from Hiker Boxes you find at outfitters, hiker hostels and motels. These boxes are filled with gear and food that other hikers “unload” because they don’t want to carry them anymore. We’ve gotten fuel, ramen, bandaids, granola bars, clothing, tuna packets, and gear from these boxes. It’s like hiker dumpster diving and it’s the best. .
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I talk about all of this because my idea for so long was that I’d have to buy everything up front and have everything planned for the full 5 months. And while I did do a lot to prepare for the first month, just in case, it really is super easy to resupply in towns and the amount of free food has been abounding. You also don’t know what food you’ll get sick of, so NEVER buy a bunch of nut butter packets up front because you may get to day 2 like I did and realize you hate nut butter. .
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The rest of your zero day, you sit in your rain gear while you do laundry, you patch up your gear that’s torn, you find braces for your ailments, you eat a ton, and you rest. You rest until you can’t rest no mo.